So again I’m on the west strand Portrush getting use to this board and trying to learn to surf better. So you will see a few things I do before I get in the water. Just remember you have to be a reasonable swimmer as it can be hard work getting out as you will see here. Now by no means was these waves massive but for me they were big on the day. Now I caught a few waves so was happy. My GoPro bit the dust and quit working so it has ended the videos for a bit. My second day I headed round to the east strand now the surf was big. I only caught a couple of smaller waves. Every time out on the bigger stuff I was getting wipeout after wipeout and not catching any big ones. Very disheartening and sore. I guess it’s a bit like life when the bad days hit you just got to get up spit out the bitter taste of defeat and head right back at it. Guys remember I’m no pro surfer. Could I even call myself a surfer? What I know about surfing you could write on the back of a stamp but the main thing is I enjoy being in the water and having that challenge of teaching myself something new. All I want to say is I can surf I don’t want to be a pro I just want to surf better 🏄♂️.
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